Nintendo Switch

A Nintendo Switch in a dock with two JoyCons and a JoyCon grip.

This page applies to the HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01) models.

Both of them mostly use the same ICs as each other. Please refer to the parts list below.

Some of the board revisions have a Diode pack, which can cause issues. The diode packs (or commonly referred to as diode arrays) can be removed without affecting the functionality of the console. They do not need to be replaced and removing them will reduce the number of future failure points from the console.

The HAC-001(-01) was released in 2019, and is a refresh of the HAC-001 model, characterized by a red box, better battery life and lower power draw.

If your Switch is stuck on a blue screen, this is traditionally a failure of the eMMC but could also be ram or CPU related. Often occurs if there is visible bending or bowing to the unit. A reflow sometimes works but the longevity of the repair is varying. A reball may be required. (If you apply pressure to both ram chips and it boots to Nintendo screen, RAM chips may need reball)

Before delving too much into a repair it might be a good idea to check the known CPU caps for shorts, at the moment if those are shorted it is general consensus that the CPU is dead.

Problem	Solution
Not Charging or only taking 0v-5v on USB-PD instead of ~15v	Full guide here
Error Code 2101-0001	Full guide here
Error Code 2134-0501	Check voltages around MAX77620 (esp 1v05 rail) Reference, if voltages good replace MAX17050 fuel gauge
Error Code 2162-0002	Replace M92T36
Orange screen of death	Full guide here
Overheats and/or joycons not connecting & charging	Full guide here
Blue screen of death	This could be CPU, eMMC or RAM related. Often occurs if there is visible bending or bowing to the unit. This can be pretty tricky to diagnose, but a full guide is on the way soon.
Draws 0.4a - 0.6a from charger but does not turn on	Do not forget to plugin the EMMC. Otherwise you may have an issue with P13USB audio/video IC. Full video here
Draws 0.00a - from charger or bench PSU	Port, Port Fuse, M92T36, or PI3USB and right most (in readable orientation) Filter, BQ24193
Console only charges from one side of the USB-C port	Potential issue with port, M92T36, P13USB, diode packs. Full video here
Doesn't turn on after port replacement	Possible issues with M92T36 or P13USB. Full video here
No fan spin and not charging joycons	Issues with fan circuit. You can use a voltage injection trick where you briefly inject voltage into the fan (in circuit) to bring the mosfet back to life. Here's A Guide. If voltage injection doesn't work, replace the mosfet above M92T36. Issue can also be caused by a bad CPU fan.
Joycons not charging or connecting/pairing	See guide here
Console appears to have no power, but makes sounds when touch screen is tapped	Ensure the LCD and backlight are not damaged. Check for liquid damage around the backlight ribbon or damage to the LCD or LCD connector Check for shorts or damage around the LCD Driver to the left of the LCD Connector (83160722)
Console works fine, but there are no WiFi networks being detected	Replace WiFi chip Broadcom BCM4356XKUBG Full guide here
Console turns on shows first logo and goes black	Change to a known good battery, try a known good screen. The LCD on a lot of Nintendo consoles will stop a console from booting. If that does not work, try a new M92T36, after that there are no more proven solutions currently.
False Charging (recognizes charger on both sides and gives charging symbol but decreases %	BQ24193
No image on Dock/TV	Check is port is damaged on Switch and the dock, try replacing the port, may be loose or improperly soldered. Try replacing P13USB. Check ferrite chokes/beads between P13USB and the port for continuity, check capacitors between as well. Try replacing all of them, even if they look OK. Sometimes replacing M92T36 will fix it, especially if the console also has charging issues like for example charging from just one side. Otherwise it may be a tricky case to solve as these data lines are high frequency and sensitive, sometimes it's not always solvable unless you have a good high frequency oscilloscope and are familiar with USB-C/HDMI video out communication protocols.
No Backlight	Make sure that the screen is working by using a flashlight. Check for corrosion on the backlight-connector, if corroded change port and repair cable. The backlight-ic is on the backside of the board. Check this TPS61163A-Chip for corrosion and replace if you have any shorts around it.
Game cartridge not reading	Check for bent pins in the slot, liquid damage around the game cartridge/headphone-jack/touch screen connector component. In some cases when there is no apparent physical damage the board may need to be replaced, but this is increasingly difficult to do as there are many revisions of this board and the touch screen which cause no touch issues, and Nintendo seems to be locking this part out from replacement with recent firmware updates. More research needs to be done on the board revisions.
No touch screen after Game cartridge replacement	If your console can be hacked, boot into Hekate and try the touch screen calibration menu. Once done, your touch screen should work fine on the original firmware. If your console is patched, try another cartridge reader version (CV, DN or DM). Also, you could try to calibrate the cartridge board using a hacked Switch then put it back on the original console.
Error code 2153-0321	Replace M92T36
Error code 2002-3538	Dump EMMC Replace EMMC Write dump to replaced EMMC
Switch restarts when you put it into standby	Check the mosfets above the usb type c port
CC1/CC2 lines are shorted to ground after replacing the M92T36 IC and connecting the Switch charger	Replace the 3v3 buck converter IC (next to the Audio IC) Source[[1]]
No power, draws 0.2A @ 15V from charger and slowly drops, unplugging battery draws ~0.275A @ 15V	Likely dead CPU. Check if the infamous CPU cap near M92T36 is shorted. If it is, currently the only possible reason is a dead CPU. There might be corrosion or burn marks near MAX17050. There is another CPU cap near the SOT-323-6 IC close to MAX17050, if that is shorted as well then you can easily assume the motherboard is unrecoverable. Can be further confirmed by shorted capacitors around the MAX PMICs [source coming soon - ItalianRetroGuy]
Error codes: 2107-0445 and 2110-1115	Replacing the WIFI / Bluetooth chip will resolve the errors and allow the switch to play games for longer than 30 minutes. You can attempt a reflow and reball of the chip but that is not always successful.
No power. Takes 15V@0.2A. Might respond to being "turned off" by holding down the power button, current will drop to 0.1A. Might even respond to being turned back on and current climbs back up to 0.2A.	Can be caused by PI3USB [source coming soon - ItalianRetroGuy]

Nintendo Switch Parts List

Parts	Description	Source
M92T36	USB-C Power Management IC	Aliexpress
PI3USB30532ZLEX	Audio/Video IC	Mouser
BQ24193	Battery Charging Management IC	Aliexpress
MAX17050	Fuel guage (battery level detection) IC	Aliexpress
BCM4356XKUBG	WiFi IC	Aliexpress
MAX77620AEWJ+T	Big PMIC (Side-B)	Aliexpress
MAX77621AEWI+T	Little PMIC (CPU & Ram)	Aliexpress
P15123CT	USB-C Protection Fuse	DigiKey
TPD2E1B06DRLR	Diode Packs	Digikey
MCZ1210DH900L2TA0G	Large EMI Filters	Digikey
MCZ0605AH900SDT000	Small EMI Filters	Digikey
Molex 503300-5310	LCD FPC for Nintendo Switch (NOT LITE)	Digikey/Mouser
DX07BN24JA2R1300	USB-C Connector	Mouser

Credit

Original article credit: TheCod3r

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ItalianRetroGuy