Nintendo Switch Lite No Backlight: Difference between revisions

Nintendo Switch Lite No Backlight
Device	Nintendo Switch Lite
Affects part(s)	Motherboard
Needs equipment	Microscope, Soldering iron, multimeter
Difficulty	◉◉◉◌ Hard
Type	Soldering

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Latest revision as of 14:14, 24 August 2025

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Problem description

The device turns on but the image is really hard to see

Symptoms

The Backlight is not working

Solution

This can be caused by a faulty display or a problem in the backlight circuit.

Diagnostic Steps

The first step is to always try new parts beforte assuming you have motherboard problem so start by testing a new display, Sub Board, Flex that connect the sub-baord to the motherboard.

If parts dont fix the issue the problem is with the backlight circuit.

Start by inspecting the Connector where the flex that comes from the sub-board to the main board for any liquid or physical damage.

If the FPC looks look we need to diagnose the backlight circuit.

The first step is check for shorts in these points, put your multimeter in continuity mode and prove the points in the image bellow these points cant have continuty to ground, if they do there is a short circuit.

If there is no shorts next step is check voltages, these voltages ony show up with the device turned on and they display plugged in.

The main voltages we need to check are:

3.6V this the VIN of the backlight Controller

1.8V is the enable signal that comes from the APU, measure this like you need to scrap the point on the board to be able to acess it.

17V is the expected output of a good working backlight circuit,if youhave 17V here the backlight circuit is working and should test parts again.

If 3.6V and 1.8V are ok try and replace the Backlight controller.

Repair Steps

Replace the FPC

The FPC is made of plastic so be careful with heat it is easy to melt it when soldering a new one.

This FPC can be found online easily.

Replacing the Backlight Controller (TPS61163)

Desoldering the Old Chip:

Cover the FPC with kapton take to avoid melting it.
Apply heat to the TPS61163 chip from above using a hot air station. Heat for several seconds until the factory solder begins to melt.
Gently nudge the chip with tweezers. If it moves, it’s ready to be lifted off.
While the board is still hot, use solder wick and a soldering iron to clean old solder from the motherboard pads.

Soldering the New Chip:

Align the new chip on the motherboard. Match the dot on the chip to the small triangle marker on the motherboard for correct orientation.
Heat the chip from above using a hot air station. Watch for the solder to melt, indicated by slight chip movement.
Gently touch the chip with tweezers to let surface tension settle it into place. Avoid excessive force.

Final Testing

Turn the console on and make sure the brightness works fine from minimum to maximum

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
   -->
-The device does not charge
+The device turns on but the image is really hard to see
-[[File:Switch Lite charging circuit.jpg|thumb|Components related to charging]]
+[[File:Switch Lite Backlight Circuit.jpg|thumb|482x482px|Components related to Backlight]]
 == Symptoms ==
@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 Detail all measurable or observable symptoms in this section.
 -->
-* The device doesnt charge
+* The Backlight is not working
 == Solution ==
@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 -->
-Before assuming you have a board problem you should try a new a battery and another charger.
+This can be caused by a faulty display or a problem in the backlight circuit.
 === Diagnostic Steps ===
-The first step is to inspect the charging port for any physical damage like: Bent pins, liquid damage, or dust.
+The first step is to always try new parts beforte assuming you have motherboard problem so start by testing a new display, Sub Board, Flex that connect the sub-baord to the motherboard.
-If every thing is ok the next thing to do is with a Mechanic T-824 take diode readings of the USB port.
+If parts dont fix the issue the problem is with the backlight circuit.
-[[File:Nintendo Switch Lite - Mechanic Readings.png|thumb|300x300px]]
-Note: It is normal for pins 08 and 17 to be OL since this device doesnt have Video output the P13 IC is not present.
-The next thing i like to check is if the fuse is ok, to do this put your multimeter in continuity mode and listen for the beep if it beeps the fuse is OK.
+Start by inspecting the Connector where the flex that comes from the sub-board to the main board for any liquid or physical damage.
-With and amp meter between the charger and the console measure the voltage, with a original charger it should be at 15V, if its not this means the M92T36 IC is not talking to the charger.
+If the FPC looks look we need to diagnose the backlight circuit.
-If you only have 5V on the charger it means the M92T36 is not working, check the capacitor around the M92T36.
+The first step is check for shorts in these points, put your multimeter in continuity mode and prove the points in the image bellow these points cant have continuty to ground, if they do there is a short circuit.
+[[File:Switch Lite Backlight circuit.png|center|thumb]]
+If there is no shorts next step is check voltages, these voltages ony show up with the device turned on and they display plugged in.
-If you find no shorts it is recomend to replace the M92T36 IC.
+The main voltages we need to check are:
-If even after doing all the above check the device does not charge the final option is to replace the BQ24193 this chip is the actual component that charges the battery.
+.6V this the VIN of the backlight Controller
+.8V is the enable signal that comes from the APU, measure this like you need to scrap the point on the board to be able to acess it.
+V is the expected output of a good working backlight circuit,if youhave 17V here the backlight circuit is working and should test parts again.
+[[File:Nintendo Switch Backlight Voltages.png|center|thumb|Nintendo Switch Backlight Voltages]]
+If 3.6V and 1.8V are ok try and replace the Backlight controller.
 == Repair Steps ==
-=== Replace the USB-C port ===
+=== Replace the FPC ===
-The easiest way to replace the USB-C port is to use the "hot swap" method it consists of heating the port from below and when the solder is liquid you lift the old port and install the new one while the solder is still liquid, there are a few videos on youtube how to this heres an example.
+The FPC is made of plastic so be careful with heat it is easy to melt it when soldering a new one.
-After soldering the new port make sure every pin as a good connection to the pad on the motherboard.
+This FPC can be found online easily.
-Make sure the solder flooded well on the anchor points both on the top side of the board and the bottom.
+=== Replacing the Backlight Controller (TPS61163) ===
-=== Replacing the M92T36 ===
 Desoldering the Old Chip:
-* Apply heat to the M92T36 chip from above using a hot air station or soldering iron. Heat for several seconds until the factory solder begins to melt.
+* Cover the FPC with kapton take to avoid melting it.
+* Apply heat to the TPS61163 chip from above using a hot air station. Heat for several seconds until the factory solder begins to melt.
 * Gently nudge the chip with tweezers. If it moves, it’s ready to be lifted off.
 * While the board is still hot, use solder wick and a soldering iron to clean old solder from the motherboard pads.
-Preparing the Motherboard and New Chip:
-* Apply a thin layer of new solder to the cleaned motherboard pads. Avoid excess solder, especially in the center square.
-* Pre-tin the pads of the new M92T36 chip with a small amount of solder to ensure good contact.
 Soldering the New Chip:
@@ Line 72: / Line 74: @@
 * Heat the chip from above using a hot air station. Watch for the solder to melt, indicated by slight chip movement.
 * Gently touch the chip with tweezers to let surface tension settle it into place. Avoid excessive force.
-Inspection and Cleanup:
-* Inspect all connections under a microscope . Ensure there are no solder bridges between pins.
-* If any connections look faulty, gently touch the affected pad with a soldering iron to reflow and correct.
-'''Note: There are a lot of sellers selling fake/faulty M92T36 chips, it is recomend to buy from a seller with good reputation'''
-== To Replace the BQ24193 ==
-Follow the same steps for the M92T36
 == Final Testing ==
-Connect the console to a charger and check if the console negotiates 15V with the charger also check if the console is drawing any current(AMPS).
+Turn the console on and make sure the brightness works fine from minimum to maximum
-Make sure you are able to charge the console from both sides of the cable.