Nintendo Switch Lite
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The Switch Lite has some similar ICs to the Nintendo Switch such as the M92T36 and BQ24193, but lacks the P13USB which allows the main Switch to dock to a TV.
- If the Switch Lite isn't charging, start with the M92T36
- Blue Screen is likely related to EMMC, CPU or RAM, likely due to bending/bowing, other significant physical damage or EMMC wear-out.
- Backlight is piped through the left controller daughter board through a long ribbon cable that connects on top of the battery connector, so make sure the screen is off before disconnecting this cable to disconnect the battery.
- Left controller daughter board (HDH-SAKYO-01) also deals with power/volume buttons, and the backlight, so start looking there for problems related to these.
- The long ribbon cable connecting HDH-SAKYO-01 to main board is very delicate, so be careful when disconnecting/connecting it. If it needs to be replaced, you need to preform origami on it to make the folds match the original to fit. Also be aware it is directional, so match the thicker traces to the original to make sure you have it in the correct orientation.
- USB-C Connector is slightly different from the full Switch, but a Switch part does connect and solder properly if it needs to be replaced and thats all you have on hand (as the Switch Lite USB-C part is hard to find), the plastic casing entrance is just larger and doesn't properly fit the Switch Lite's casing, but with sanding/filing can be made to fit.
- Joystick replacement parts are compatible with the full Switch's Joycons.
- L/R trigger micro-switches are the same as the full Joycon.
- Not powering on and USB-C-Meter restarting constantly (9V 0A -> off -> 9V 0A -> off...) -> STM32 getting pretty hot (chip on the other side of the fan-connector). Replacing it fixed the problem.