Steam Deck - Replace shoulder switch R1/L1

Steam Deck - Replace shoulder switch R1/L1
Device	Steam Deck
Affects part(s)	Controller Board
Needs equipment	Soldering Iron, replacement switch
Difficulty	◉◉◌◌ Medium
Type	Soldering, Part replacement

This article is a stub. You can help Repair Wiki grow by expanding it

Problem description

Figure 1: Example of a new shoulder button switch with a ripped center pad (picture by u/veazix).

A common problem with the controller board of the Steam Deck LCD are the shoulder switches, that can break off easily during disassembly.

Solution

Where to buy new switches

There are multiple compatible replacement switches. On Aliexpress they are sold as

• Steam Deck switch
• XBOX 360 bluetooth pair switch

Those switches have three pins and two legs (the latter for mounting through the pcb).

Repair Steps

Figure 2: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view. Red box: signal multiplexer. green arrow: testing point for the L1 switch.

Swapping of the switches should be self-explanatory. A hot plate/pre-heater is recommended (the board sinks a lot of heat). See example videos:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R3DQNNDvZmE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGT32mNI3Yk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFDZtsM-iDM

Damaged signal pad

In case the signal pads on the pcb get damaged (See Figure 1):

On each controller board the leftmost and rightmost pin of the switch is connected to the ground plane of the board.

Figure 3: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board. red circle: testing point for the L1 switch.

The middle pin is connected to the MCU/a signal multiplexer. On the left controller board you can strip the solder mask of the trace, running to the middle pin of the switch or connect the middle pin of the switch to the corresponding testing point for the L1 switch (see figure 2 and 3 on rev. B boards and figure 7 on rev. F board).

Figure 4: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch.

On the right controller board, the middle pin is connected to the testing point visualised in figure 4.

Figure 5: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the center pin of the switch (picture by u/veazix).

Figure 6: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the testing point on the back side of the board (picture by u/veazix).

A possible fix for the right controller board might look like figure 5 and 6 (rev. B Board) if you run a magnet wire (enamelled wire) from the center pin of the switch to the testing point.

Figure 7: Testing point for L1 switch on controller board rev. F - left