More actions
This page documents the Ecotality PE-30 EV charging station. This was a robust pedestal for public use, encapsulating the WE-30 hardware that Ecotality made for home use.
In the early 2010s, the US DoE funded a program ("The EV Project") to help solve the chicken-or-egg problem of public charging infrastructure vs EVs to use them. Ecotality Inc won the project and proceeded to seed the country, in several markets, with Level 2 charging stations branded as "Blink". For home charging these were WE-30 models; for public charging these were the heavier duty PE-30 model, which was just a WE-30 packaged in a heavy steel pedestal.
Ecotality and Blink then went through multiple rounds of bankruptcy and rebirth, and in the process the old PE-30 hardware was abandoned. Any site that wanted to continue operating their Blink hardware on the Blink network needed to upgrade to newer generation hardware. With Blink's high network / maintenance fees, many sites choose to abandon the stations. Without a Blink subscription, the old hardware ceased to work.
However, the old stations are just dumb EVSEs with networking and UI hardware added to them. It is easy to "lobotomize" the hardware, disconnecting the network and UI layer, and turn them back into dumb stations that simply deliver power right away after you plug in.
Model number | Part number | display height | |
---|---|---|---|
PE-30Kice60 | 01-0131-0000 | 60 inches | |
PE-30Kice48 | 01-0135-0000 | 48 inches (ADA) | |
PE-30Kice40 | 01-0136-0000 | 40 inches (ADA) |
Disassembly to access EVSE internals
- Remove two security bolts (Torx security, 4 mm) at top of pedestal.
- While lifting LED light assembly up, disconnect the wiring harness, and set the assembly aside.
- Remove the two bolts at the top (hex, 10 mm).
- At the cable management reel, remove the white cosmetic cover; it pops out with help of a flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the two (maybe 3-4) bolts (hex, 10 mm) that hold the reel onto the pedestal. You will need a nut driver for this, since the bolts are recessed in deep holes.
- Tilt the large metal cover forward away from the pedestal assembly and lift it away. While you do this, you will need to feed the charging cable back through the grommet. You won't be able to disconnect the cover completely due to the attached cable, but you'll be able to set it aside.
- Remove five bolts (hex, 10 mm) that hold the EVSE cover on; these should just be finger tight since they are fastening down plastic.
- As you remove the EVSE cover, slowly peel the adhesive gasket off the touch screen.
It's not necessary to access the EVSE internals, but if you want to also remove the pedestal's back cover, use a regular (non-security) Torx T25 wrench. To lift it off the ground mount, you'll need a 1/2-inch box wrench.
Disable network and touchscreen
These are the steps to disable the network / UI hardware, aka lobotomize it, so that the station Just Works as a dumb EVSE, simply providing power when you plug in.
- Open up the pedestal per the steps above.
- Look behind the touchscreen. Immediately behind it will be a PCB that drives the touchscreen (and the RFID sensor mounted below it). Behind that, about 300 mm further "back" and mounted on plastic standoffs, is another PCB which is a small Linux computer to drive the network connectivity.
- On the bottom of the touchscreen PCB is a three-pin interface with two thick blue wires going to it. This is providing power to the networking/UI assembly. Disconnect this. The photo here shows what it looks like after it's been disconnected.
- On the right side of the computer PCB is a 10-pin interface with many thin blue wires going to it. This is providing data between the computer and the touchscreen. Disconnect this. The photo here shows what it looks like after it's been disconnected.
repair J1772 plug / cordset
history of initial cordset having bad crimps and being downrated to 24 Amps
latch hook somehow shifts and prevents latching and needs to be filed down to work again