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{{Repair Guide | {{Repair Guide | ||
|Device=Steam Deck | |Device=Steam Deck | ||
|Affects parts=Controller Board | |Affects parts=Controller Board | ||
|Needs equipment=Soldering Iron, replacement switch | |Needs equipment=Soldering Iron, replacement switch | ||
|Type=Soldering, Part replacement | |Type=Soldering, Part replacement | ||
| Line 20: | Line 20: | ||
--> | --> | ||
==== Where to buy new switches ==== | |||
There are multiple compatible replacement switches. On Aliexpress they are sold as | |||
* Steam Deck switch | |||
* XBOX 360 bluetooth pair switch | |||
Those switches have three pins and two legs (the latter for mounting through the pcb). | Those switches have three pins and two legs (the latter for mounting through the pcb). | ||
=== Repair Steps === | === Repair Steps === | ||
[[File:REV B left back mux.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view|thumb|Figure 2: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view. Red box: signal multiplexer. green arrow: testing point for the L1 switch.]] | [[File:REV B left back mux.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view|thumb|Figure 2: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view. Red box: signal multiplexer. green arrow: testing point for the L1 switch.]] | ||
Swapping of the switches should be self-explanatory. | Swapping of the switches should be self-explanatory. A hot plate/pre-heater is recommended (the board sinks a lot of heat). See example videos: | ||
See example videos: | |||
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R3DQNNDvZmE | https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R3DQNNDvZmE | ||
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGT32mNI3Yk | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGT32mNI3Yk | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFDZtsM-iDM | |||
==== Damaged signal pad ==== | |||
In case the signal pads on the pcb get damaged (See Figure 1): | In case the signal pads on the pcb get damaged (See Figure 1): | ||
On each controller board the leftmost and rightmost pin of the switch is connected to the ground plane of the board. | On each controller board the leftmost and rightmost pin of the switch is connected to the ground plane of the board. | ||
[[File:Back board l.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board|thumb|Figure 3: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board. red circle: testing point for the L1 switch.]] | [[File:Back board l.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board|thumb|Figure 3: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board. red circle: testing point for the L1 switch.]] | ||
The middle pin is connected to the MCU/a signal multiplexer. On the left controller board you can strip the solder mask of the trace, running to the middle pin of the switch or connect the middle pin of the switch to the corresponding testing point for the L1 switch (see figure 2 and 3). | The middle pin is connected to the MCU/a signal multiplexer. On the left controller board you can strip the solder mask of the trace, running to the middle pin of the switch or connect the middle pin of the switch to the corresponding testing point for the L1 switch (see figure 2 and 3 on rev. B boards and figure 7 on rev. F board). | ||
[[File:R Board REV B back - R1 test point.jpg|alt=Figure 3: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch. |thumb|Figure 4: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch.]] | [[File:R Board REV B back - R1 test point.jpg|alt=Figure 3: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch. |thumb|Figure 4: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch.]] | ||
On the right controller board, the middle pin is connected to the testing point visualised in figure 4. | On the right controller board, the middle pin is connected to the testing point visualised in figure 4. | ||
[[File:Wire1.webp|thumb|Figure 5: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the center pin of the switch (picture by u/veazix).]] | [[File:Wire1.webp|thumb|Figure 5: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the center pin of the switch (picture by u/veazix).]] | ||
[[File:Wire2.webp|thumb|Figure 6: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the testing point on the back side of the board (picture by u/veazix).]] | [[File:Wire2.webp|thumb|Figure 6: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the testing point on the back side of the board (picture by u/veazix).]] | ||
A possible fix for the right controller board might look like figure 5 and 6 if you run a magnet wire (enamelled wire) from the center pin of the switch to the testing point. | A possible fix for the right controller board might look like figure 5 and 6 (rev. B Board) if you run a magnet wire (enamelled wire) from the center pin of the switch to the testing point. | ||
[[File:Shoulder switch testing point.jpg|alt=Testing point for L1 switch on controller board rev. F - left|thumb|Figure 7: Testing point for L1 switch on controller board rev. F - left]] | |||
Latest revision as of 07:39, 13 November 2024
| Steam Deck - Replace shoulder switch R1/L1 | |
|---|---|
| Device | Steam Deck |
| Affects part(s) | Controller Board |
| Needs equipment | Soldering Iron, replacement switch |
| Difficulty | ◉◉◌◌ Medium |
| Type | Soldering, Part replacement |
This article is a stub. You can help Repair Wiki grow by expanding it
Problem description
A common problem with the controller board of the Steam Deck LCD are the shoulder switches, that can break off easily during disassembly.
Solution
Where to buy new switches
There are multiple compatible replacement switches. On Aliexpress they are sold as
- Steam Deck switch
- XBOX 360 bluetooth pair switch
Those switches have three pins and two legs (the latter for mounting through the pcb).
Repair Steps
Swapping of the switches should be self-explanatory. A hot plate/pre-heater is recommended (the board sinks a lot of heat). See example videos:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R3DQNNDvZmE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGT32mNI3Yk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFDZtsM-iDM
Damaged signal pad
In case the signal pads on the pcb get damaged (See Figure 1):
On each controller board the leftmost and rightmost pin of the switch is connected to the ground plane of the board.
The middle pin is connected to the MCU/a signal multiplexer. On the left controller board you can strip the solder mask of the trace, running to the middle pin of the switch or connect the middle pin of the switch to the corresponding testing point for the L1 switch (see figure 2 and 3 on rev. B boards and figure 7 on rev. F board).
On the right controller board, the middle pin is connected to the testing point visualised in figure 4.
A possible fix for the right controller board might look like figure 5 and 6 (rev. B Board) if you run a magnet wire (enamelled wire) from the center pin of the switch to the testing point.
