Steam Deck - Replace shoulder switch R1/L1 and Steam Deck - Power Button: Middle pad ripped off: Difference between pages

Steam Deck - Power Button: Middle pad ripped off
Device	Steam Deck
Affects part(s)	Steam Deck LCD Mainboard
Needs equipment
Difficulty	◉◉◉◌ Hard
Type	Soldering, Part replacement, BGA

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Latest revision as of 17:52, 24 October 2024

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Problem description

Unfortunately the power button Switch on the Steam Deck LCD is a structurally weak component. The pads/traces under the switch can easily rip off, during a swap of the switch.

Solution

Compatible switches can be found as "Steam Deck switch", XBOX 360 pair switch", Nintendo DS switch e.g. on Aliexpress.

The switch is the same as the shoulder button switch on the controller boards.

The two outermost pins are connected to ground while the middle pin is connected to the ITE IT5570VG IC. Unfortunately the trace for the middle pin runs directly into one of the inner layers under one of the ground pads. At the moment, no testing point for the middle pin was found on the board.

A repair attempt is documented here:

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/853756/Middle+pad+of+the+power+button+ripped+off.+Where+to+bridge+that+from

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-{{stub}}
 {{Repair Guide
 |Device=Steam Deck
-|Affects parts=Controller Board rev. B
+|Affects parts=Steam Deck LCD Mainboard
-|Needs equipment=Soldering Iron, replacement switch
+|Type=Soldering, Part replacement, BGA
-|Type=
+|Difficulty=3. Hard
-|Difficulty=2. Medium
 }}
+{{stub}}
 == Problem description ==
 <!--
 Provide a concise description of the issue here. Be  as specific as possible to help readers quickly determine whether or not this is the exact problem they are facing.
-  -->[[File:Shoulder switch.webp|thumb|Figure 1: Example of a new shoulder button switch with a ripped center pad  (picture by u/veazix).]]
+  -->
-A common problem with the controller board of the Steam Deck  LCD are the shoulder switches, that can break off easily during disassembly.
+Unfortunately the power button Switch on the Steam Deck LCD is a structurally weak component. The pads/traces under the switch can easily rip off, during a swap of the switch.
 *
@@ Line 20: / Line 21: @@
 -->
-There are multiple compatible replacement switches. On Aliexpress they are sold as "Steam Deck switch" or "XBOX 360 pair switch".
+Compatible switches can be found as "Steam Deck switch", XBOX 360 pair switch", Nintendo DS switch e.g. on Aliexpress.
+The switch is the same as the shoulder button switch on the controller boards.
-Those switches have three pins and two legs (the latter for mounting through the pcb).
+The two outermost pins are connected to ground while the middle pin is connected to the ITE IT5570VG IC. Unfortunately the trace for the middle pin runs directly into one of the inner layers under one of the ground pads. At the moment, no testing point for the middle pin was found on the board.
-=== Repair Steps ===
-[[File:REV B left back mux.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view|thumb|Figure 2: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board - full view. Red box: signal multiplexer. green arrow: testing point for the L1 switch.]]
-Swapping of the switches should be self-explanatory.
-In case the signal pads on the pcb get damaged (See Figure 1):
+A repair attempt is documented here:
-On each controller board the leftmost and rightmost pin of the switch is connected to the ground plane of the board.
+https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/853756/Middle+pad+of+the+power+button+ripped+off.+Where+to+bridge+that+from
-[[File:Back board l.jpg|alt=Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board|thumb|Figure 3: Test point of the L1 shoulder switch on the rev B controller board. red circle: testing point for the L1 switch.]]
-The middle pin is connected to the MCU/a signal multiplexer. On the left controller board you can strip the solder mask of the trace, running to the middle pin of the switch or connect the middle pin of the switch to the corresponding testing point for the L1 switch (see figure 2 and 3).
-[[File:R Board REV B back - R1 test point.jpg|alt=Figure 3: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch. |thumb|Figure 4: Test point of the R1 shoulder switch on the rev. B controller board. green circle: testing point for the R1 switch.]]
-On the right controller board, the middle pin is connected to the testing point visualised in figure 4.
-[[File:Wire1.webp|thumb|Figure 5: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the center pin of the switch  (picture by u/veazix).]]
-[[File:Wire2.webp|thumb|Figure 6: Controller Board R, magnet wire connected to the testing point on the back side of the board (picture by u/veazix).]]
-A possible fix for the right controller board might look like figure 5 and 6 if you run a magnet wire (enamelled wire) from the center pin of the switch to the testing point.