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| {{Repair Guide
| | Xbox One S 1.1V Standby |
| |Device=iPhone 11
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| |Affects parts=Main Logic Board
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| |Type=Soldering
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| |Difficulty=3. Hard
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| }}
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| {{stub}}<br />
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| [[File:Placeholder image.jpg|thumb|Example image (Figure 1) -- No image yet. Help expand this page by uploading it!]]
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| == Symptoms ==
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| Detail all measurable or observable symptoms in this section.
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| * No current draw before prompt to boot on DC power supply
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| * After prompt to boot, you see the current jump quickly between 0 A and various values, like 0 A > 320 mA > 0 A > 1.4 A > 0 A > 500 mA
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| == Solution ==
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| <!--
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| If the issue has a single, specific solution, provide it in this section and delete the sub-headers below. Otherwise, if there are multiple potential causes for the problem, outline the process of identifying the root cause and offer corresponding solutions below.
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| * Check for shorts around NAND
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| * Usually you'll find these lines with a shorted capacitor:
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| ** PP2V63_NAND
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| ** PP1V8_NAND
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| ** PP0V9_NAND
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| * If so, find the shorted capacitor by injecting voltage
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| Here's a video tutorial of an iPhone 11 Pro with this same issue. It would be the same for iPhone 11: https://youtu.be/1sboZLnURIc
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| '''Please note:''' PMIC (U1801) will often show lots of heat if you're testing with the DCPS connected through the battery connector but it's not the cause of the short. The short is at the capacitor next to NAND, but since you're connected to the battery connector, the current has to flow through PMIC to get to the short cap, hence the PMIC heats up.
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| ''Migrated from old wiki''
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Latest revision as of 22:23, 29 June 2025
