(Created page with "{{stub}} {{Repair Guide |Device= |Affects parts= |Needs equipment= |Type= |Difficulty= }} ==Problem description== Provide a concise description of the issue here. Be as specific as possible to help readers quickly determine whether or not this is the exact problem they are facing. thumb|Example image (Figure 1) -- No image yet. Help expand this page by uploading it! ==Symptoms== Detail all measurable or observable symptoms in this section...") |
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{{Repair Guide | {{Repair Guide | ||
|Device= | |Device=Nintendo Switch OLED | ||
|Affects parts= | |Affects parts=Main Logic Board | ||
|Needs equipment= | |Needs equipment=Soldering Iron, Hot Air Station, Microscope | ||
|Type= | |Type=BGA, Soldering | ||
|Difficulty= | |Difficulty=2. Medium | ||
}} | }} | ||
==Problem description== | ==Problem description== | ||
Here's how to fix a Nintendo Switch OLED that has no HDMI output. When you plug in the device to the dock, the TV will not show anything. | |||
[[File: | [[File:Nintendo Switch OLED No HDMI Output Mechanic Readings.png|none|thumb|Figure 1. The Mechanic Readings of a Nintendo Switch OLED with No HDMI Output ]] | ||
==Symptoms== | ==Symptoms== | ||
*No HDMI Output | |||
*Dock not working | |||
*TV Does not display anything from the Nintendo Switch | |||
*Mechanic Reader shows Pin 8 and 17 as OL (Figure 1) | |||
==Solution== | |||
[[File:Nintendo Switch OLED - Pin 8 and 17 choke.png|none|thumb|Check this choke when your Mechanic Readings show OL for pin Pin 8 and 17]] | |||
If you have Pin 8 and 17 as OL as shown in Figure 1, you most likely have a blown choke on that circuit. | |||
It is located on the bottom side of the board, above the USB C port. | |||
You'll need to check for continuity across the choke. View the visible traces, so you can see how the continuity should travel. | |||
You can also diode mode each leg of the choke. All 4 legs should give you a diode mode reading. | |||
If you get OL on the port side (lower) of the choke, but you get diode mode readings on the top side, then the choke is bad. | |||
You can replace it from any other Nintendo Switch or Switch OLED. You can also often find them on other devices, like iPhones, iPads & other Android devices. They're often near the LCD/Display connector. | |||
Once you replace the bad choke, you should no longer get OL through the mechanic reader & the Switch OLED should start displaying on the TV via HDMI. | |||
[[File:Switch OLED Mechanic Readings.jpg|none|thumb|Known good Mechanic readings for Nintendo Switch OLED]] | |||
Latest revision as of 11:44, 13 June 2024
| How To Fix Nintendo Switch OLED With No HDMI Output | |
|---|---|
| Device | Nintendo Switch OLED |
| Affects part(s) | Main Logic Board |
| Needs equipment | Soldering Iron, Hot Air Station, Microscope |
| Difficulty | ◉◉◌◌ Medium |
| Type | BGA, Soldering |
Problem description
Here's how to fix a Nintendo Switch OLED that has no HDMI output. When you plug in the device to the dock, the TV will not show anything.
Symptoms
- No HDMI Output
- Dock not working
- TV Does not display anything from the Nintendo Switch
- Mechanic Reader shows Pin 8 and 17 as OL (Figure 1)
Solution
If you have Pin 8 and 17 as OL as shown in Figure 1, you most likely have a blown choke on that circuit.
It is located on the bottom side of the board, above the USB C port.
You'll need to check for continuity across the choke. View the visible traces, so you can see how the continuity should travel.
You can also diode mode each leg of the choke. All 4 legs should give you a diode mode reading.
If you get OL on the port side (lower) of the choke, but you get diode mode readings on the top side, then the choke is bad.
You can replace it from any other Nintendo Switch or Switch OLED. You can also often find them on other devices, like iPhones, iPads & other Android devices. They're often near the LCD/Display connector.
Once you replace the bad choke, you should no longer get OL through the mechanic reader & the Switch OLED should start displaying on the TV via HDMI.
